The oceans are rapidly changing and not for the better. Already divers with several years of diving can be heard reminiscing about when reefs were healthier and fish more plentiful. One of the places that time has left relatively untouched is the Exumas in the Bahamas. As a marine sanctuary it been protected from over fishing and damage to the delicate slow growing coral reefs. The beaches are pristine and the gin clear sapphire blue water sparkles and is laden with marine life. I spent a week aboard a catamaran, diving several times per day, soaking up the astounding beauty all around me. Nature entertains the eye with more shades of blue than can be named, and each of the small islands is more appealing than the last. There are over 300 islands in the chain and more excellent dive sites that are close together than almost anywhere else. Visiting these islands is a chance to go back in time, to slow down the pace of living and appreciate that change has been slow in these parts. May it remain so.